Day 24 – Friday, April 13 -Ephesus to Pamukkale, Turkey – Dave

Turns out – on  closer inspection of our bill for the last 2 nights in the ’boutique Ephesus hotel’- that the ‘gentle, long-haired economics professor” was something of a rogue who stiffed us spectacularly on the drinks tab.   But we should have seen it coming after he got impressively drunk and incoherent on Raki last night.  This morning his long hair needed a wash and he smelled bad – I think this distracted Simon from checking the bill properly.

Pleasant ride on empty roads…

…to Pamukkale where the whole hillside looks like it’s covered with snow…

…but, it’s actually calcite deposited by thermal springs bubbling up throughout the whole area.  The Romans, who were, it seems, prepared to travel huge distances and enslave and/or slaughter anyone just for the sake of hot water, built the city of Hierapolis here.  The ruins are extensive and well-preserved.

Our hotel was a vast, newish, shoddy, tasteless palace that offered infinite spa treatments like ‘chocolate mask’, ‘thermal spring rub’ and ‘Congolese massage ‘ (maybe I didn’t get that translation right).. but the place was completely empty apart from us and we felt sorry for the poor, suckered investors who’d built this colossal folly.

Then, suddenly, dozens of huge coaches rolled into the car park and spewed out hundreds and hundreds of amazingly unattractive Germans, South Koreans, Australians…and the hotel was heaving with people in pursuit of Congolese massages.

So we went into town in search of gozleme – thin pancakes cooked over an open fire and filled with spinach, lamb, potatoes etc.  etc.  I chose one from the menu that was filled with ‘spinach and feet cheese’.  Fortunately I had guessed right that this meant ‘spinach and feta cheese’.

We are enjoying Turkey.

Love to all,





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